Chili heats up downtown Ashland: Restaurants square off in contest
By Cathy Flynn / News Staff Writer
Sunday, June 13, 2004

ASHLAND -- Montenegro Square was perhaps the only place yesterday where the question "Are you hot?" could be asked in polite company.

     The occasion was the Ashland Fire Department's chili cook-off, which drew about a dozen restaurants and clubs and -- by 2 p.m. -- at least 200 chili-lovers who voted for their favorite. The winner will be announced tomorrow.

     Fire Department Lt. Anthony Duca, who organized the cook-off, said proceeds would benefit a charity chosen by the family of Anna Rivera, a beloved Ashland resident who died recently in a car accident last year. And since the firefighters plan to make the cook-off an annual event, this year's winner will choose next year's charity, Duca added.

     Along with raising money for Rivera's charity, the event also gave restaurants the chance to show off their cuisine and mingle with Duca, who serves as Ashland's fire inspector and frequently inspects their kitchens for hazards, and with other firefighters.

     Like choosing a wine, choosing a favorite chili is a subjective process. But no doubt heat makes the first impression.

     "I like it a little hot, but not overpowering," said Bruce Mann, of Ashland, who added he was undecided about whether the Corner Pub or the Sunnyside Cafe was his favorite.

     "On a scale of one to 10, I'd say this is a 6," said Sandy Mimms of H and D General Store, of the spiciness of her chili offered up in a small plastic cup. "This is a big seller in the winter. Last week, on a rainy day, I made it for the restaurant and we were completely wiped out."

     While heat is one variable, for seasoned chiliphiles other factors are considered, such as seasoning.

     George Chetwynde of the Corner Pub used habanero peppers for his "butt-smoking chili." While his concoction started out with pleasing cumin overtones, it later delivered a punch that left the taster breathless.

     "We use habanero peppers or Scotch bonnets," said Chetwynde, who offered bread to smother the fire. "It gets you every time."

     The Sunnyside Cafe offered its chili with a touch of chocolate, similar to the Mexican mole sauce. Employee Caroline Kennedy (not THAT one) offered chocolate chip cookies to anyone who could decipher that secret ingredient.

     "This chili delivers the most intense taste at the back of the throat," she said. "That's the Mexican secret. The unsweetened chocolate really heightens the flavor."

     The American Legion cooks played to the mainstream, serving up a chili that was about a 5 on the heat scale from 1 to 10 and had delightful smoky overtones.

     "You tried the rest, now try the best," coaxed Dave Whitham, one of the proud cooks, who revealed the secret behind the smoke: Budweiser beer.

     His colleague, Ron Antobenedetto, said that a medium-heat chili pleases most of the crowd.

     "We don't want anything that burns your mouth and lips," Antobenedetto declared. "That's just ridiculous."

     TJ's Restaurant offered a chili that at first taste delivered a pleasing bouquet of cumin and tomatoes, before delivering a mean kick. And while Adriana on HBO's "The Sopranos" may have been whacked a few episodes ago, the tomato and green pepper notes on Adriana's Restaurant's chili were lively enough to wake the dead.

     "People are responding well so far," said Sue Doyle, a waitress at Adriana's. "It's not too spicy."

     Debbie Ferretti of Nello's Restaurant offered a bonus: onions for topping off the chili. She said her husband Dino made this batch and she had no idea what was in it.

     "He never tells me his secrets," she fretted.